The Repressed Fashion Democracy

23 April 2026

The Repressed Fashion Democracy

In 1984 John Galliano graduated from Central Saint Martins. His collection was inspired by the rebellious fashion subculture of the 1790s, Les Incroyables. These early-day punks were without studs, but, similarly, their dress codes were a radical act against the ruling political regime of the time. Purposefully exaggerated lapels, oversized hats, excessively long sleeves and unevenly bunched coattails mocked the repressed democratic dress code of the French Revolution, which forced everyone to look the same. Sound familiar?

“John was the most dedicated, caring and observant student. He picked up technical training very quickly—he was very pedantic about it, consistently. In all my 40 years at Central Saint Martins, he was the best student I ever had.” – Peter Lewis Crown, OBE, Galliano’s tailoring tutor.

John Galliano’s graduate collection from One of A Kind.

Photographed by Boris Ovini
Model Sadie Pinn
Styled by Kate Forbes
Make up by Giada Venturini