26 June 2023


We thought fashion had run out of good ideas in 2013. Turns out there were a few exceptions, and selling designer’s past collections in high esteem was one of them. We were intentionally trying to piss off the fashion establishment that had stopped caring about originality.

10 years later, and just like everyone became an iPhone “photographer” and Instagram “model”, everyone’s now an “archivist”. An admirable pursuit in the fight against fast fashion. But not fashion democracy.

"We are, by design, the underdogs. But it’s obvious we need back up."

The same ‘democracy’, that has made fashion harmful and tasteless, has now gatecrashed the one thing that people like us, who don’t want to be figured out, could have for themselves, like an H&M designer collaboration pissing on the original.

Instead of encouraging people to be more considered and creative, it’s just added more stuff: more clothes, more copies, more chaos.

Resale has become the new fast fashion, led by social “archivists”, unboxing marketplace finds, often misattributed as rare collectables, ‘influencing’ the market with basic taste and fashion history, like muses for Fatboy Slim’s Star 69 lyrics, “They know what is what. But they don’t know what is what, they just strut, what the fuck”.

If we sound disgruntled, we are.
We should all be more dissatisfied.
It’s what makes things better.

In our opinion, (you’ll see a lot more of this), understanding the nuance and context of brands and culture within fashion history is what gives fashion its meaning. Knowing the ‘what is what’ intellectually slows the insipid trends cycle that has, like a subculture hijacked by John Varvatos, infected contemporary vintage.

We are, by design, the underdogs. But it’s obvious we need back up and we’re now the official place for designer brand concessions, proudly relaunching with The Vivienne Foundation, (we start at punk, after all). Supporting the causes that Vivienne felt so passionately about with her vintage collections authenticated and blockchained to limit the fakes.

And we don’t just mean the clothes.

Gill Linton.